SNAIL

silc · Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2008 1:53 pm Post subject:

Thanks guys for all your advices, I finally manage to get rid off those thinks this WE and I've started to renovate them...

Here are some pictures of what I've done:

I hope to be able to finish the cleaning and painting job this WE on thoses things and start the weld of new parts on the wheelbase.

- Silc
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Nothing else's better than a 2CV custom!!!
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silc · Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2008 1:24 pm Post subject:

Here we go.

A bit of work done this WE to finish the restauration of the gear boxe.

Here is the work done:

If you guys have any coments, shoot Wink

Next step: wheelbase...

- Silc
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Nothing else's better than a 2CV custom!!!
Yeah baby yeah!!!

dyanut · Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2008 7:24 pm Post subject:

Whoops,
sorry silc, but I have to advise you the output hubs have been fitted incorrectly, since the drain/overflow holes which are visible in the photographs should face downwards, not upwards... Sad

To be honest, when refurbishing a gearbox, I'd always concentrate on its internals, because there are certain known weaknesses in these later gearboxes.

For instance, the upper rear bearing often wears out early, resulting in noise in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear.
Although Citroen used a special flanged bearing, there is a stock alternative ( 6304NR) available which fits perfectly once its circlip has been filed slightly smaller.

When fitting that, you will usually find that the two large nuts, one on the primary shaft (which has the speedometer drive gear) and the other on the pinion shaft, will have worked loose.
It's always worthwhile using Loctite to secure them, rather than depending solely on the staking which Citroen used.

Also inside the gearbox, the 2nd/3rd gear selector ring is prone to 'unwinding' from its sliding pinion, because the staking used by Citroen was insufficient. This often results in the selector spinning completely off, especially after a long or fast reversing manoeuvre.
The gearbox will then be stuck in two gears and although it's possible to repair this by the roadside, it's far better to prevent it happening.

It's quite easy to supplement the original staking and prevent this disaster, especially when the gearbox has been removed from the car and the work can be carried out on the bench.

Ken.

silc · Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2008 7:36 pm Post subject:

Thanks Ken for all those advices, and information. Therfore I need to go back on the gearbox which is still on the bench Laughing

- Silc
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Nothing else's better than a 2CV custom!!!
Yeah baby yeah!!!

silc · Posted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 10:25 pm Post subject:

Here we go... Wheels Very Happy

This is the result of my work done dureing the last few weeks:

Nice isn't it? Cool

- Silc
_________________
Nothing else's better than a 2CV custom!!!
Yeah baby yeah!!!

silc · Posted: Fri Dec 26, 2008 4:40 pm Post subject:

Last week-end I've started to remove the rusty parts on the chassis. I did the up-side. Still need to work on the down-side:

- Silc
_________________
Nothing else's better than a 2CV custom!!!
Yeah baby yeah!!!

marc2cv · Snailer Joined: 14 Jan 2008 Posts: 22

wow, thats a restoration!! keep on the spirit to do it like this, i 've seen some restorations with only new parts. that's buying a new car. but why are you doing this. you have to much time? respect for the things you're doing with the chassis.
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2cv 1.5 ti mid-engine

silc · Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2009 5:01 pm Post subject:

Thanks Marc...

The reason of this restauration is symple: this car is my first car and I managed to get it back from the dead when I was 17 with the help of my very wise grand-father (retired mechanic Laughing

). But as the rust was getting everywhere (the other reason is that I blew-up the engin! Twisted Evil

) I've decided to start a real and full restauration. And in a way this is as well a tribute to my grd-father whom passed the way last year...
I'm indeed spending lots of time on this project but as you said I don't want to buy brand new parts... All the "new" parts that I'm getting are original parts and most of the time "used" parts but still in good condition. Even for the body shell that I'm replacing with one from 1963.
As I'm leaving for a month tomorrow for Canada I won't be able to do some work on it but as soon as I'm back I'll work hard to finish the chassis and start to work on the new body shell to adapt it for a chassis and engine from the 80's... Can't wait to keep on going with this project...
I'm very interresting as well on your project. Please send us some pict as soon as possible Wink

- Silc
_________________
Nothing else's better than a 2CV custom!!!
Yeah baby yeah!!!

silc · Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 12:28 am Post subject:

Hi all,

Did some work today but inside because of this:

My welds are shit but I doubled them to get them stronger. So it should do the job. If you guys have any comments or advices, PLEASE!!!

Anyway, next time will be the welding of the up side and then the paint job...

- silc
_________________
Nothing else's better than a 2CV custom!!!
Yeah baby yeah!!!

Bart · Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 11:50 am Post subject:

looks good!

Some welding advice in case you didn't know:

Always clean the spots you want to weld! Clean means cleaned with the grinder, so ground blank steel. That welds much better than when cleaned with a wirebrush, because ones grinded traces of grease and rust are mostly gone.

Don't hesitate to play with the settings off the welder. Try to get feeling for what works better. I did that through the years and get better results with more experiance.
Generally a greater current welds deeper, and requires more or less wire (cann't remember how it works on my dads machine). Probably others can give more and better advice on this topic Question

Good luck and all the best, Bart
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I like to play Very Happy

dyanut · Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 1:17 pm Post subject:

Hi silc,
to add a little to the excellent advice already given above by Bartje, it's maybe worth having a look at this site.
< http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/wire-speed.htm >
( Malcolm, the fellow who started it is a Renault 4 fanatic, but not too worry about that, as there's so much good advice on welding.)

You do need to weld those internal stiffeners to the replacement upper and lower 'skins' of your chassis, so practising the technique of 'plug welding' would be advisable... Wink

Ken.

silc · Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 2:27 pm Post subject:

Thanks guys fro the advices. The website is very good as well! Now I understand better why I had some troubles with my f*** welds Evil or Very Mad

What I'll do is:
- Grind the welds already done as much as I can
- Re-start the welding

I'll weld as well the internal stiffners. The first welds done this WE was to put the peace of metal in place.

Will post some news picts when the job will be done Wink

- Silc
_________________
Nothing else's better than a 2CV custom!!!
Yeah baby yeah!!!

Etienne · Hoodrider Joined: 25 May 2007 Posts: 2829

Good luck with weldings ! You'll see, you'll get more and more experience... but it needs some time !
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silc · Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2009 12:49 pm Post subject:

Here we go a bit of work done during the week. The welding is now finished. I'd like to have the paint Job finished by the end of next week:

Anti - rust paint on the inside:

Last part welded with nice grind of the welds:

- Silc
_________________
Nothing else's better than a 2CV custom!!!
Yeah baby yeah!!!

dule · Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2009 2:13 pm Post subject:

well done