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Barnfind 1957 Snail 2CV

 
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kadaver
Dropped


Joined: 29 Mar 2008
Posts: 175
Location: Vriezenveen, the Netherlands

PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2016 12:54 am    Post subject: Barnfind 1957 Snail 2CV Reply with quote

For everyone that does'nt have Facebook or does not know about the Snail2CV Facebook page, I'm posting my project here.

Last November, I sold my blue custom pickup (topic here:)
http://snail.s4.bizhat.com/viewtopic.php?t=1106&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=60

The day after, I bought another 2CV of a French farmer. The idea is to keep the patina and as much of the original charm. But make it low and cool looking! I'm building it to be a daily driver; so it has to handle fairly well, have a decent seating position, heating... just be driveable on a daily basis.

Here it sat for about 40 years.



I sold my blue pickup a day earlier... next day I got myself a new project car.



Couple months later,the new chassis is already build. All new brakes, bearings, steering rack, kingpins, etc.



I adjusted the kingpin caster angle for low driving ('turned arms')



Front antirollbar (Ami). I also installed a NOS 7 teeth steering rack, for quicker steering. Did this so I can use the oldskool two-spoke large steering wheel without too much turning.



AK/AMI shocks



Installed these 100% uprated springs from ECAS (double the springrate) front and rear in stainless steel canisters.



Rear antirollbar, had to make some brackets myself.



Channeling 6 cm to the top of the sills.





Had to make some cut-outs for the rear antirollbar, as it was coming through the floor.



Moved the pedalbox up the firewall. I just made a little box for the clutch and brake pedal. In my opinion this is the easiest way, and most of it is going to be camouflaged by the battery tray. Going to install a floor hinging accelerator later.



Have been working on fitting the engine under the bonnet. This turns out to be not that easy. I have channeled 6 cm and an unmodified chassis, and the ripple bonnet has a very little space to work with.



In this pic: small oil filler neck, dropped alternator and moved the oil cooler over. The engine and transmission are moved back about 10mm to help clearance the bonnet.




And the alternator just barely fits under the bonnet without rubbing.



Cut up the fan housing to clear the bonnet, than create something new!



Floor mat ignition cover.



These old wings don't clear the 652cc engine, so i i welded in these pieces. Also, the bottom of the inner wing is trimmed and an hole for the heat escape needs to be made still.



Head light bracket snakes around the alternator.

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duck-tuc
Dropped


Joined: 02 Dec 2010
Posts: 170
Location: belgium

PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2016 8:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice work !!!
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Wout
Dropped


Joined: 16 Sep 2008
Posts: 368
Location: Arendonk, Belgium

PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2016 1:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now thats cool!
Looking forward to see this one.
652 you say? Just saw normal 2cv cilinders on your picture.
Or are they modified?
Keep it up that good work.

About the patina on the body.
Going to use oil, or are you going to apply clear coat?
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kadaver
Dropped


Joined: 29 Mar 2008
Posts: 175
Location: Vriezenveen, the Netherlands

PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2016 10:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Wout,

Yes they are modified 2cv cylinders, using a Visa piston. This gives a higher compression ratio than normal 'big bore' kits, which is a bit experimental. But we've tested the engine on a dynomometer, it has the same power as a Visa, but revs better (2cv engines are more rev happy than Visa ones).

The car needs rust protection, for sure. There's not much paint left really. But I'm not going to clear coat it. After repairing/repainting/maintaining the paint on my pickup for 4 years I want something that is easy to correct and redo (i want to use this car daily if i feel like it). So I'm using RX-5 which is based on linsead oil. It gives the car a shine, and will make the rusted parts darker, bit that actually looks pretty cool in my opinion. I already started applying this on the body itself (look at the picture above).
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AZ
Snailer


Joined: 11 Mar 2013
Posts: 48

PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2016 11:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice project.
Unless you're a really bad driver, i would advice to remove the front anti roll bar, also the rear anti roll bar is probably not very necessary with double the original spring rate.
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kadaver
Dropped


Joined: 29 Mar 2008
Posts: 175
Location: Vriezenveen, the Netherlands

PostPosted: Wed May 18, 2016 10:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi AZ,

I know that the front antirollbar could create understeer. I installed the stabiliser because I wanted a softer ride than on my Pick-up (which had the 170% uprated springs from ECAS). And at the same time I want to limit wheeltravel while cornering. So i chose the 100% uprated spring in combination with the rollbars.

We'll see. Hopefully the package is balanced, if not, I'll make adjustments.
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Harley
Dropped


Joined: 26 Nov 2007
Posts: 394
Location: Braidwood - Australia

PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2016 3:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Amazing build Kadaver,

Call me if you want to sell it, seriously, luv it. Cool

You can loose the front swaybar, front wheel drive cars benefit greatly from a rear bar as if a rear inside wheel lifts you can catch it, if an inside front lifts your off into the bushes.

A good article here: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&title=Rear-Sway-Bars-Improving-FWD-Handling&A=113179

I have the front bar fitted to my car with uprated springs and it was fine but I have since removed it for raiding and will look at a custom rear bar that propably goes through the suspension tube.

Harley
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Spot my 2cv Surprised www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zoq68CPLq4M
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kadaver
Dropped


Joined: 29 Mar 2008
Posts: 175
Location: Vriezenveen, the Netherlands

PostPosted: Sun May 22, 2016 9:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Harley; thanks dude! I'm not going to sell it, whaha... Going to have some fun myself first Laughing

As said before I'll try out the swaybars. When I read your post you seam fairy positive about them (and I don't plan on going raiding Very Happy ).

Since it's channeled and seating position is low, I don't think it will easily roll so much that it'll lift the inner wheel.
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maximus
Snailer


Joined: 06 Apr 2014
Posts: 78
Location: England

PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2016 1:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, This is excellent work, it looks as though you've got everything planned out before you start. I make things fit as I go along which doesn't always make it look to pretty...

PS. Did you narrow the suspension arms at all, or just rotate the kin pin forwards?

Great work. keep it up!!! Very Happy
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Wout
Dropped


Joined: 16 Sep 2008
Posts: 368
Location: Arendonk, Belgium

PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2016 8:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any news about your project?
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