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Diek's 2.0Ti awd Subaru engine+drivetrain
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Diek2cv
Snailer


Joined: 16 Jan 2008
Posts: 66
Location: Netherlands - Deventer

PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2009 11:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some more work done:

the last possibility to turn the chassis, so sprayed it already one time, and "filled" the inside with ML, anti corrosion.


I fitted the axles:


As you can see, the front axle is nice low!

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Olli
Soviet-Finn Photoshoper


Joined: 25 May 2007
Posts: 2146
Location: Soviet-Finland

PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 11:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks nice! You have good finnish welder (kemppi). Will you make some
bolt on reinforces over the front axle or you think its now strong enough?

-Olli
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silc
Dropped


Joined: 31 Aug 2008
Posts: 324
Location: Montpellier

PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 1:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it stay this way, it will break with the engine weight...

- Silc
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Last edited by silc on Sat Jul 04, 2009 10:21 pm; edited 2 times in total
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Diek2cv
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Joined: 16 Jan 2008
Posts: 66
Location: Netherlands - Deventer

PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 11:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
If it stay this way, it will break this the engine weight...


I'll bet €1000,= on it that it won't break on the engine weight!!

Quote:
Will you make some bolt on reinforces over the front axle or you think its now strong enough?


I even think it will never break at all, but like Olli said, I'm thinking indeed of some bolt-over reinforcement, just to be sure.

And yes, good equipement is half of the job!
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JoZeF
Grave Digger


Joined: 25 May 2007
Posts: 1734

PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 1:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think that weight + road surface/suspension forces + engine torque will have something to say to the chassis setup you've done.

I'm no specialist, but i think you really need something to brace that part of the chassis
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JuanNavarro
Dropped


Joined: 16 Feb 2008
Posts: 171
Location: Madrid (Spain)

PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 2:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, in a car or machine is not static forces what matters, but dynamic and fatigue stresses, think in a breaking efforts, more when you are thinking in inboard breaks.

I read somewhere (J.Cats site i think) about a poor quality rear bolt shearing on a GS gearbox on a modified 2cv, just because the breaking efforts. Break forces can be 4 times the acceleration forces.

And the 2cv frame are designed to cope only with traction an compressión forces due to suspension efforts, not flexing as the rest of the cars, the only significative flexig efforts in a 2cv frame are in the front hors and come from the engine-gearbox acceleration and breaking (the rest comes from the load but are ubicated in the center, not a cantilever arrangement except for the boot)

Anyhow your work is great and shows a great combination effort and skills, I wish it work.

Finally im expectant on how do you think to atach the suspension rods to the suspension arms. Question
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Diek2cv
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Joined: 16 Jan 2008
Posts: 66
Location: Netherlands - Deventer

PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2009 1:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was already thinking of making an anti-rollbar/cage from the front of the chassis, through the body, till de back of the chassis.
This to make it a sort of extra frame to prevent bending and so on. Bolted on of course.

JuanNavarro; I don't understand what you mean with this
Quote:
Finally im expectant on how do you think to atach the suspension rods to the suspension arms.[img][/img]

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Shedspeed
Dropped


Joined: 13 Jul 2007
Posts: 446
Location: kent, England

PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2009 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

because you have made the front axle lower, the tie rods from the springs won't be able to screw into the shackle on the arm, will they?

Edit, how will this bit:



screw into this bit?


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JuanNavarro
Dropped


Joined: 16 Feb 2008
Posts: 171
Location: Madrid (Spain)

PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 9:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I mean that im curious on how you are going to solve the suspension assembly misalign (see pic)

Thats a challenge that i always been thinking, but never have solved, to embed the suspension axles in the frame to make a upper flat bed, and as you use a rear transmision.

Thank you, your work is inspiring.


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Diek2cv
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Joined: 16 Jan 2008
Posts: 66
Location: Netherlands - Deventer

PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 9:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah!

That will be some kind of "try and error" I have to find out.
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Shedspeed
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Joined: 13 Jul 2007
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Location: kent, England

PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 10:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's an idea,

Cut the spring canister mount and reweld it so it faces downwards slightly, run the springs out of the cans and solid mounted. It may mean raising part of the floor where the springs point upwards but the tie rod will take a straight route to the suspension arm.

If this makes no sense I'll draw a picture and scan it in.
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Diek2cv
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Joined: 16 Jan 2008
Posts: 66
Location: Netherlands - Deventer

PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 10:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, holidays are over and everythings starts again as ended before the WM which means that I will carry on with the project.
A bit low profile due to lack of money, but lot's of things can already be done.

Like Shedspeed said, that will probably the way to lower the front-spring. Actually I don't like the idea to cut them off and reweld them, but I guess there will be no other way.

Ps. WM was fun! :) Nice to see a lot of the Snail cars and off course the girls, beer and music helped a lot too Wink
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Diek2cv
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Joined: 16 Jan 2008
Posts: 66
Location: Netherlands - Deventer

PostPosted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 11:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Crying or Very sad due to removal, a new job and must emptying the barn I have to sell my project....

I'll post it in the "for sale" section.

Crying or Very sad Crying or Very sad
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