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Lowering... a few questions for the racers...
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Etienne
Hoodrider


Joined: 25 May 2007
Posts: 2829

PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2009 2:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for infos Juan !
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MattiH
Snailer


Joined: 19 May 2009
Posts: 3

PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2009 10:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bartje wrote:
MattiH wrote:
Bartje wrote:
MattiH wrote:
So how much oil should there be in front, and back shocks?
Don't know, but they should be FULL with oil.


I thought there should be air and oil? I allrdy tried to put one FULL of oil, and it didnt move even a bit.. So it was very hard and im sure that it would just go broken if installed under a car.

Embarassed Sorry I may well be wrong there. If you read earlier posts from the pro's on this topic on page 2; it says as much as you took out.


I see. But the problem is, that i didnt measure how much oil there was.. Neutral
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Lars E
Dropped


Joined: 03 Aug 2007
Posts: 172
Location: Aale city, denmark

PostPosted: Sat Jan 09, 2010 10:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello, I had little time to spare at work, and so must of course be tested by some theories.
For small 2 years ago I changed the oil in my shocks out with 75w80 gear oil, and found out that I should have done long ago, the car was much better to drive when you run it low. but would like to have it a little stiffer.
So I made this little test.
The fastest ball is in the normal shock absorber oil.
The middle is in gear oil
And the slowest is 100w hydraulic oil to the lifts in the workshop (that I have switched to winter)

http://www.bilgalleri.dk/vid_vis.aspx?VideoID=32869
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2cv 0,6Tii special
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motomotie
Dropped


Joined: 29 Jun 2009
Posts: 207
Location: hengelo NL

PostPosted: Sat Jan 09, 2010 6:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice movie Very Happy

I'like to try it with 80w90.
We use it in our machines.

Just need something to buy to mesure how many oil there is in the shox.
How much oil is in there +- ?
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motomotie
Dropped


Joined: 29 Jun 2009
Posts: 207
Location: hengelo NL

PostPosted: Fri Jan 15, 2010 5:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very Happy 190 cc Very Happy
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dule
Lowered


Joined: 06 Jan 2008
Posts: 590
Location: Zagreb, Croatia

PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 7:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi there a Q for all of ya with tech knowledge! I found an old guy who manufactures springs and stuff like that and he told me that he used to do the spring for 2cv and all the other A series (now he does some work mostly for the street racers and constructin workers trucks, and minor jobs also)

anyhow, I was talking to him about making a set for my car but I'd like to have them done stiffer and shorter to have my car as low (or even lower) as possible but not so trembly and soft. does any of you have specs for those kind of springs (like these on pic that Jozef used for his Ami)



is it for example 10% shorter and 10% stiffer?!? are the coils/material thicker?!?
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Bart
Lowered


Joined: 17 Jun 2007
Posts: 781
Location: Södertälje

PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 8:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Less coils and thicker wires make them stiffer.
I think it says 170% on Joseph's springs. Uk racers roughly run in between 150 and 300% stiffer, but the real raceguys will be able to tell you that much better.
For a road car I think about 100% stiffer is a good avarage.
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motomotie
Dropped


Joined: 29 Jun 2009
Posts: 207
Location: hengelo NL

PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dule, do you have any idea about the cost's.

I like myself a pair too.
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JoZeF
Grave Digger


Joined: 25 May 2007
Posts: 1734

PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe from where you are motomotie you might as well order from ECAS ?

My car has got 170 % rating.

it's as comfortable as a peugeot 205 or VW Golf on the road (that's not talking about the seats, of course Laughing ) so it's perfectly nice on the road

Wink
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Last edited by JoZeF on Thu Feb 25, 2010 9:51 pm; edited 1 time in total
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motomotie
Dropped


Joined: 29 Jun 2009
Posts: 207
Location: hengelo NL

PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 9:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JoZeF wrote:
Maybe from where you are motomie you might as well order from ECAS ?

My car has got 170 % rating.

it's as comfortable as a peugeot 205 or VW Golf on the road (that's not talking about the seats, of course Laughing ) so it's perfectly nice on the road

Wink


thats ok to me. i like comfort Mr. Green

Looked by ECAS. (first time)
And i like the price. Thanks Very Happy
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Harley
Dropped


Joined: 26 Nov 2007
Posts: 394
Location: Braidwood - Australia

PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 1:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The springs in a 2cv work the opposite to a normal car, the lower you go the softer and more bouncy it becomes. So you want stiffer and Longer not stiff and short.

I think the rear can be lenghtened to the same was the front and still fit in the can...

How the suspension works HERE...

More about uprated springs HERE

Some of the uprated % are huge, from 100% to 300%!!

i was told that uprated 10%-20% is more than sufficient for a standard height road car... Mine are 20% uprated which equals the same length but 1mm thicker material...

Harley
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dule
Lowered


Joined: 06 Jan 2008
Posts: 590
Location: Zagreb, Croatia

PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not looking for my ride to become stiffer, just lower (maybe I didn't understood you wright?!?), and for that I need shorter and harder (not to hit every hole on the road) spring ...wright?...or?!?

and about the cost the man said that he must first know the specs and than he can calculate the price
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Harley
Dropped


Joined: 26 Nov 2007
Posts: 394
Location: Braidwood - Australia

PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 8:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just went through the same process to get springs made.

dule wrote:
I'm not looking for my ride to become stiffer, just lower (maybe I didn't understood you wright?!?), and for that I need shorter and harder (not to hit every hole on the road) spring ...wright?...or?!?


No, springs in a 2cv work in the other direction, unlike a "normal" car you want stiffer and Longer to ride low (as long as the springs fit in the cans), do not get springs made shorter

Low 2cv = long (uncompressed) spring, high 2cv = short (compressed) spring.

dule wrote:
and about the cost the man said that he must first know the specs and than he can calculate the price

I suggest you take the springs to him and ask for the same spring length but uprated (?)%
Which in my case was 1mm thicker wire with the same nuber of coils = 10-15% uprated.

I hope i have explained this ok and the information i have given you is correct.

Harley
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Etienne
Hoodrider


Joined: 25 May 2007
Posts: 2829

PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 4:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry Harley but you're wrong !!!!

You need shorter stiffer spring in a 2 CV to drive low. In a 2 CV springs work in same way as a normal car. Only shocks absorbers work the other way !
And anyway, a short spring reacts differently than a long one. More the spring is compressed and harder it is. So a short spring is quicker harder on bumps than a long one. So a long spring is only adapted for high ground clearence.

When the 2 CV goes lower, the spring is compressed. So a shorter spring make the car lowered....
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dule
Lowered


Joined: 06 Jan 2008
Posts: 590
Location: Zagreb, Croatia

PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 6:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shocked Confused

so


I was wright all the way? Neutral

ok, the next step is to talk the price :) as my car (should be) as low as possible hehehe
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