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dieselflosse Snailer

Joined: 20 Nov 2007 Posts: 72 Location: Finland
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Posted: Mon Nov 26, 2007 2:06 pm Post subject: Lower 2CV |
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So, nothing need to buy, just unscrew that part a little bit. It might be stacked but with oil and heat it should be screwable.
I am a little bit confused what happen if I put full load (people or gargo) to the car. Is suspension on the bottom all the time? Or does that screwing some strange effect to the springs and they are stiffer? _________________ Regards
Tero |
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JoZeF Grave Digger

Joined: 25 May 2007 Posts: 1734
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Posted: Mon Nov 26, 2007 2:19 pm Post subject: |
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Hi
No, if you lower your car, whatever weight you add will lower it more...
Be careful if you heat the screws, cause on one side of the chassis there is the brake line, and, more dangerous, the fuel !!!
Put a heat shield to protect it, otherwise........
I don't know what tools/knowledge you have, but if you are equipped or/and want to get it low and useable, follow the tips given by 2cvracer (amongst others)
just unscrewing will make the steering harder... but it's driveable, although not as soft as a regular 2cv _________________ "That bumper fits there like sunglasses on pig" O.E.
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dieselflosse Snailer

Joined: 20 Nov 2007 Posts: 72 Location: Finland
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Posted: Mon Nov 26, 2007 2:47 pm Post subject: Facilities |
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Thanks for the tips! That brake line warning might save lives...
I thought to use heating machine (looks like hear dryer), no fire.
What comes to my tools and fasilities, it is more on the intro part which will come later when my 2cv is landed...
On this phase I can tell some keywords; garage of two cars (hole on the floor for car repairing), welding machine, small compressor, bunch of hand tools... 25 years some kind of maintenance activities around cars from Honda Civic to Dodge Coronet mainly Mercedes', not 2cv (driving experience of 2cv 5 meters ). _________________ Regards
Tero |
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Etienne Hoodrider

Joined: 25 May 2007 Posts: 2829
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Posted: Mon Nov 26, 2007 7:13 pm Post subject: |
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Hi and welcome here!
So now my car is like that :
I just let 1,5cm screwed and it works fine. I also have Gabriel shock absorbers and there are stronger. I drive a lot like that, and that's perfect!
Before the car was like that:
with some longer part (as the Joseph's pic), but the steering was totally too hard. I will lower my car like that later, when I will have money to buy modified front arm and harder spring.... _________________ www.super2cv.com |
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dieselflosse Snailer

Joined: 20 Nov 2007 Posts: 72 Location: Finland
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Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 10:29 am Post subject: Original shocks |
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Etienne wrote: | Hi and welcome here!
I just let 1,5cm screwed and it works fine. I also have Gabriel shock absorbers and there are stronger. I drive a lot like that, and that's perfect!
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Thanks! This site is very good finding!
I will follow that advice of 1,5cm. Which model of Gabriel do you have? Only front or also rear?
That my 2cv4 is with originally shocks. At the front there are friction shocks (is that correct term, I mean without oil?). Should I change those? Or are they tunable? _________________ Regards
Tero |
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Etienne Hoodrider

Joined: 25 May 2007 Posts: 2829
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Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 11:46 am Post subject: Re: Original shocks |
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dieselflosse wrote: |
I will follow that advice of 1,5cm. Which model of Gabriel do you have? Only front or also rear?
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In fact I let 1,5cm on on side and 2,5cm on the other side. Often the suspension is lower on the driver side after so many years...!
I have 4 gabriel shocks, I bought them here:
ebay
dieselflosse wrote: |
That my 2cv4 is with originally shocks. At the front there are friction shocks (is that correct term, I mean without oil?). Should I change those? Or are they tunable? |
The best thing to do, is to make shock absorber support on your chassis. It's not big deal and it's even possible to buy it :
But the "frotteur" could be tunable but I don't know how it works. You should just try to lower it, and just see how reacts the car. If it's not ok, it's easy to higher it a little bit... _________________ www.super2cv.com |
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JoZeF Grave Digger

Joined: 25 May 2007 Posts: 1734
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Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 12:31 pm Post subject: |
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The best thing to do is obviously to fit shock absorbers on the front of your car...
a 2cv goes up and down as it bounces along the road... so if you are close to the road, it could hit the oil sump and crack it (happened to a friend in his old Dyane) _________________ "That bumper fits there like sunglasses on pig" O.E.
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björn Lowered
Joined: 19 Jun 2007 Posts: 1695 Location: hillywood(hilversum)/holland
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Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 2:35 pm Post subject: |
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etienne where cane i buy this shock suport?
i'm thinking of dowing this on my other azu _________________
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Etienne Hoodrider

Joined: 25 May 2007 Posts: 2829
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Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 3:27 pm Post subject: |
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At the "2CV Club Cassis" but it's quite expensive!
Quote: | 007550 - Adaptateur amortisseur avant complet (x2)
Prix public 165.85 € Prix Club 116.10 € |
_________________ www.super2cv.com |
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Bart Lowered

Joined: 17 Jun 2007 Posts: 783 Location: Södertälje
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Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 3:47 pm Post subject: |
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I think it shouldn't be to difficult to make them yourself, just cut a circle out of a normal frontaxle endplate and make two barckets to fit the shocks near the from of the springtube. |
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Pimslet Snailer

Joined: 14 Nov 2007 Posts: 52 Location: France Nièvre Nevers Magny Cours
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Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 8:05 pm Post subject: |
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hello,
Quote: | But the "frotteur" could be tunable but I don't know how it works. You should just try to lower it, and just see how reacts the car. If it's not ok, it's easy to higher it a little bit... |
yes, there are two type of "frotteur"
1) not dismantable, not tunable
2) dismantable, tunable, just increase prestressing.
Care that you have the same gliding torke on each.
Tune the high of the car before getting on the tuned "frotteur", because the high that your car have will be a little different each time the body of the car moves.
A "frotteur" doesn't work like hydraulic dampers.[/code] _________________ Always trying to gets more power on my AZLP, fortunately the fuel has been cheaper for one month. |
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dieselflosse Snailer

Joined: 20 Nov 2007 Posts: 72 Location: Finland
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Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 8:24 am Post subject: |
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Pimslet wrote: |
1) not dismantable, not tunable
2) dismantable, tunable, just increase prestressing.
Care that you have the same gliding torke on each.
Tune the high of the car before getting on the tuned "frotteur", because the high that your car have will be a little different each time the body of the car moves.
A "frotteur" doesn't work like hydraulic dampers. |
Is those choices related to year model or just luck? I mean that my 2cv is from year '75. Which one is more likely in that car?
Do you have picture of "frotteur" available? _________________ Regards
Tero |
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Pimslet Snailer

Joined: 14 Nov 2007 Posts: 52 Location: France Nièvre Nevers Magny Cours
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Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 11:12 am Post subject: |
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hello,
You should have dismantable ones.
If you want to see, get of one cover, you'll see a big nut, with a bolt that is used to prestress the spring of the "frotteur".
this is the first type, that you can not dismantle.
http://www.forum-auto.com/uploads/200506/alexgb_1118596749_1.jpg _________________ Always trying to gets more power on my AZLP, fortunately the fuel has been cheaper for one month. |
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Joolz Snailer
Joined: 07 Apr 2008 Posts: 33 Location: Pays de Galles/Charente
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Posted: Thu May 08, 2008 3:14 pm Post subject: |
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Excuse me if I take this thread back to topic, has anyone got any experience of cutting and welding the tie rods? I am wondering if they are regular steel or if they are something special that wont weld easily or will break where I weld it.
joolz |
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Bart Lowered

Joined: 17 Jun 2007 Posts: 783 Location: Södertälje
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Posted: Thu May 08, 2008 4:07 pm Post subject: |
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As fare as I'm aware they are just regular steel which you can weld with any decent welder. I did shorten a set for an offroad buggy a few years ago and they are still going strong! (at least my friends didn't complain... )
For obvious reasons you got to pay attention to the quality of the weld though.
Cheers, Bart |
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