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Lowering... a few questions for the racers...
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dieselflosse
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Joined: 20 Nov 2007
Posts: 72
Location: Finland

PostPosted: Mon Nov 26, 2007 2:06 pm    Post subject: Lower 2CV Reply with quote

So, nothing need to buy, just unscrew that part a little bit. It might be stacked but with oil and heat it should be screwable.

I am a little bit confused what happen if I put full load (people or gargo) to the car. Is suspension on the bottom all the time? Or does that screwing some strange effect to the springs and they are stiffer?
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Tero
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JoZeF
Grave Digger


Joined: 25 May 2007
Posts: 1734

PostPosted: Mon Nov 26, 2007 2:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

No, if you lower your car, whatever weight you add will lower it more...

Be careful if you heat the screws, cause on one side of the chassis there is the brake line, and, more dangerous, the fuel !!! Shocked

Put a heat shield to protect it, otherwise........

I don't know what tools/knowledge you have, but if you are equipped or/and want to get it low and useable, follow the tips given by 2cvracer (amongst others)

just unscrewing will make the steering harder... but it's driveable, although not as soft as a regular 2cv
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dieselflosse
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Joined: 20 Nov 2007
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 26, 2007 2:47 pm    Post subject: Facilities Reply with quote

Thanks for the tips! That brake line warning might save lives...

I thought to use heating machine (looks like hear dryer), no fire.

What comes to my tools and fasilities, it is more on the intro part which will come later when my 2cv is landed...

On this phase I can tell some keywords; garage of two cars (hole on the floor for car repairing), welding machine, small compressor, bunch of hand tools... 25 years some kind of maintenance activities around cars from Honda Civic to Dodge Coronet mainly Mercedes', not 2cv (driving experience of 2cv 5 meters Laughing ).
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Etienne
Hoodrider


Joined: 25 May 2007
Posts: 2829

PostPosted: Mon Nov 26, 2007 7:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi and welcome here!

So now my car is like that :

I just let 1,5cm screwed and it works fine. I also have Gabriel shock absorbers and there are stronger. I drive a lot like that, and that's perfect!

Before the car was like that:

with some longer part (as the Joseph's pic), but the steering was totally too hard. I will lower my car like that later, when I will have money to buy modified front arm and harder spring....
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dieselflosse
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Joined: 20 Nov 2007
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 10:29 am    Post subject: Original shocks Reply with quote

Etienne wrote:
Hi and welcome here!

I just let 1,5cm screwed and it works fine. I also have Gabriel shock absorbers and there are stronger. I drive a lot like that, and that's perfect!



Thanks! This site is very good finding!

I will follow that advice of 1,5cm. Which model of Gabriel do you have? Only front or also rear?

That my 2cv4 is with originally shocks. At the front there are friction shocks (is that correct term, I mean without oil?). Should I change those? Or are they tunable?
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Tero
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Etienne
Hoodrider


Joined: 25 May 2007
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 11:46 am    Post subject: Re: Original shocks Reply with quote

dieselflosse wrote:

I will follow that advice of 1,5cm. Which model of Gabriel do you have? Only front or also rear?


In fact I let 1,5cm on on side and 2,5cm on the other side. Often the suspension is lower on the driver side after so many years...!
I have 4 gabriel shocks, I bought them here:
ebay

dieselflosse wrote:

That my 2cv4 is with originally shocks. At the front there are friction shocks (is that correct term, I mean without oil?). Should I change those? Or are they tunable?


The best thing to do, is to make shock absorber support on your chassis. It's not big deal and it's even possible to buy it :


But the "frotteur" could be tunable but I don't know how it works. You should just try to lower it, and just see how reacts the car. If it's not ok, it's easy to higher it a little bit...
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JoZeF
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Joined: 25 May 2007
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 12:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The best thing to do is obviously to fit shock absorbers on the front of your car...

a 2cv goes up and down as it bounces along the road... so if you are close to the road, it could hit the oil sump and crack it (happened to a friend in his old Dyane)
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björn
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Joined: 19 Jun 2007
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 2:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

etienne where cane i buy this shock suport?
i'm thinking of dowing this on my other azu
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Etienne
Hoodrider


Joined: 25 May 2007
Posts: 2829

PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 3:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

At the "2CV Club Cassis" but it's quite expensive!

Quote:
007550 - Adaptateur amortisseur avant complet (x2)
Prix public 165.85 € Prix Club 116.10 €

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Bart
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Joined: 17 Jun 2007
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 3:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think it shouldn't be to difficult to make them yourself, just cut a circle out of a normal frontaxle endplate and make two barckets to fit the shocks near the from of the springtube.
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Pimslet
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Joined: 14 Nov 2007
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Location: France Nièvre Nevers Magny Cours

PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 8:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hello,

Quote:
But the "frotteur" could be tunable but I don't know how it works. You should just try to lower it, and just see how reacts the car. If it's not ok, it's easy to higher it a little bit...


yes, there are two type of "frotteur"
1) not dismantable, not tunable

2) dismantable, tunable, just increase prestressing.
Care that you have the same gliding torke on each.

Tune the high of the car before getting on the tuned "frotteur", because the high that your car have will be a little different each time the body of the car moves.

A "frotteur" doesn't work like hydraulic dampers.[/code]
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dieselflosse
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Joined: 20 Nov 2007
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 8:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pimslet wrote:


1) not dismantable, not tunable

2) dismantable, tunable, just increase prestressing.
Care that you have the same gliding torke on each.

Tune the high of the car before getting on the tuned "frotteur", because the high that your car have will be a little different each time the body of the car moves.

A "frotteur" doesn't work like hydraulic dampers.


Is those choices related to year model or just luck? I mean that my 2cv is from year '75. Which one is more likely in that car?

Do you have picture of "frotteur" available?
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Tero
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Pimslet
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Joined: 14 Nov 2007
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Location: France Nièvre Nevers Magny Cours

PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 11:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hello,

You should have dismantable ones.

If you want to see, get of one cover, you'll see a big nut, with a bolt that is used to prestress the spring of the "frotteur".

this is the first type, that you can not dismantle.

http://www.forum-auto.com/uploads/200506/alexgb_1118596749_1.jpg
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Joolz
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Joined: 07 Apr 2008
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Location: Pays de Galles/Charente

PostPosted: Thu May 08, 2008 3:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excuse me if I take this thread back to topic, has anyone got any experience of cutting and welding the tie rods? I am wondering if they are regular steel or if they are something special that wont weld easily or will break where I weld it.

joolz
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Bart
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Joined: 17 Jun 2007
Posts: 783
Location: Södertälje

PostPosted: Thu May 08, 2008 4:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As fare as I'm aware they are just regular steel which you can weld with any decent welder. I did shorten a set for an offroad buggy a few years ago and they are still going strong! (at least my friends didn't complain... )
For obvious reasons you got to pay attention to the quality of the weld though.

Cheers, Bart
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