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Undead Ami
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Etienne
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Joined: 25 May 2007
Posts: 2829

PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 12:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well it looks rusty as a car in Britain should look, but it's good than you saved it !
Notice than the rear lights are older than the car, and the Dyane type hubcaps.
The white one is definetly an Ami 8 (see the handle), and sadly there is nothing in common between 6 and 8... Or at least not with your 6. The very last one already have the AM2 engine the Ami8 has as well.
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Jasu
Dropped


Joined: 30 Sep 2007
Posts: 211
Location: Finland

PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 12:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mr Unhinged wrote:
Only thing missing in action is 4th Gear and im guessing thats why she was layed up originally in 2004.

There is the old type gearbox, so when You put 4th gear, You need to turn lever when the lever is on 3rd, no from neutral like new type gearbox, and keep lever "on right" when moving to 4th...

^ Is that understable at all??? Rolling Eyes
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Etienne
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 1:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


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breninfrance
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Joined: 16 Jan 2012
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 2:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lovely Cool

is it six volt?
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Mr Unhinged
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Joined: 17 Sep 2012
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Etienne wrote:
Well it looks rusty as a car in Britain should look, but it's good than you saved it !
Notice than the rear lights are older than the car, and the Dyane type hubcaps.
The white one is definetly an Ami 8 (see the handle), and sadly there is nothing in common between 6 and 8... Or at least not with your 6. The very last one already have the AM2 engine the Ami8 has as well.


In the UK we do Rusty cars very well, Its the Salt they put on the roads that kills them. Sad
Sitting up to its waist in long grass did this no favours either.

They are very rare this side of the pond as they just did not sell well and rust got most of them.

So its a bit of a mongrel then? I like the early lights on it and the panel is good, so it stays.

As for Ami 8 Ami 6 interchangability The burning question is will the sills, floorboards be the same do you know. as there only seems to be Ami 8 ones available in this country?
Same goes for the lower bulkhead?
Please bear wih me as i am more familier with those VW rear engined things at the moment and this is a learning curve for me.
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Mr Unhinged
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Joined: 17 Sep 2012
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

breninfrance wrote:
lovely Cool

is it six volt?

Pretty sure its 12volt ...well I hope it is as it was a 12volt battery I put on that started it:lol:
There was nothing there there was also no indication that it was positive or negative earthed.
I got lucky but it is something I need to check.

This is the problem of not having any history to go on from the previous owner.
It got left to die in a field, and the guy owed the field owner a lot of rent.
Field owner took posession of it and I bought it off him.
The really sad thing is it got driven into the field with Tax and MOT on it.
so it was pretty solid when it went in.
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Mr Unhinged
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Joined: 17 Sep 2012
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 9:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jasu and Etienne correct answer 4th gear only required my brain engagement to work.



Secondly this was something I was very happy to find

Its an important peice of the puzzle towards getting a new logbook... I e no vin, then the car is dead and no longer exists... so thats off my mind now, It would kill me inside to do the work and not to be able to get a logbook for it.

So here is the damage with all the seats out



so from front to back.
Drivers side scuttle front of sill and doorpillar


Knackered
Passenger side more holes and less metal
Note temp door hinge repair

Middle of footboard and front of Chassis (from inside car)
Not terminal but while Im there I might as well do it properly
Chassis is an unknown but looks very good from the underside so still hopeful

Going back into the rear footwells
Drivers side

and passengers side.

one knackered, one messy so coming out.

Rear seatbox Salvagable but a little frilly where it joins the inner wings pretty damn good though.
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Etienne
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Joined: 25 May 2007
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 10:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

breninfrance wrote:
lovely Cool

is it six volt?


It is 12V. Black dash Ami6 with silver buttons are 12V and beige dash Ami6 with gold buttons are 6V. It goes from 6 to 12 in 1965 if I remember right. This one seems to be a 1967 to me.
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Etienne
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 10:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For sills and floors, buy some new ones. Check this : http://snail.s4.bizhat.com/viewtopic.php?t=1810
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Etienne
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 10:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Btw I have an Ami6 with some rust issues as well, not that bad as your but it should need some new floors and sills at some point. It still holds at the moment, I drive it and it's ok. Funny thing, from outside, yours shine much more :

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Mr Unhinged
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Joined: 17 Sep 2012
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 11:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Etienne wrote:
breninfrance wrote:
lovely Cool

is it six volt?


It is 12V. Black dash Ami6 with silver buttons are 12V and beige dash Ami6 with gold buttons are 6V. It goes from 6 to 12 in 1965 if I remember right. This one seems to be a 1967 to me.

Yup checking out the serial number it is a 67 and as for the panels.
the quality looks great I will need to have a chat with him soon.

Its the details like the changeover years and specs that I am struggling with at the moment, but I will learn eventually I hope.
Lovely Ami by the way Etienne.
I have no idea why mine looks so good from the top side either.
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JoZeF
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Joined: 25 May 2007
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Citroen steel is shit quality, mainly because of it's thickness (or lack of) due to weight saving obligations.

Even more so on the AMIs where by construction they are especially sensitive to rust because of multiple layers of steel all sandwiched together.

I wouldn't try to repair/retain whats left (except the rear seat box, it's a bit of a hassle to replace etc). If I were you I'd buy replacement panels, cut the crap out and renew the whole pan. It'll be done once and won't even need looking at again in your lifetime if it's well rustproofed afterwards.

You could also do a light channeling job (-6/7cm)while you're at it, to streamline the car a bit Twisted Evil

Have fun, it's not that bad a job with a nice gas welder.
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breninfrance
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Joined: 16 Jan 2012
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

it looks solid enough to me, my 2cv was worse.
and a real rare beastie in the UK.
take care when welding the chassis near the heelboard, don't just slap a plate on top, it's a complex area, and where they're prone to bending
and simple enough to do right
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Mr Unhinged
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Joined: 17 Sep 2012
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 9:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JoZeF wrote:
Citroen steel is shit quality, mainly because of it's thickness (or lack of) due to weight saving obligations.

Even more so on the AMIs where by construction they are especially sensitive to rust because of multiple layers of steel all sandwiched together.

I wouldn't try to repair/retain whats left (except the rear seat box, it's a bit of a hassle to replace etc). If I were you I'd buy replacement panels, cut the crap out and renew the whole pan. It'll be done once and won't even need looking at again in your lifetime if it's well rustproofed afterwards.

You could also do a light channeling job (-6/7cm)while you're at it, to streamline the car a bit Twisted Evil

Have fun, it's not that bad a job with a nice gas welder.


I love using gas , unfortunately its so cost prohibitive to use over here.
So mig It Is.
My plan (Roughly) is to leave the shell on the semi solid chassis for as long as possable to keep the shell straight while I get some strength back into it.
Its all coming out peice by peice and new bits fitted and welded where i can reach(to minimise shell warp) and brace the shell.

Then shell off and flipped on its side, toeboard, and anything else needed under it.
Sort the chassis/ replace it if necissary prep and paint the underside of the shell to match the topside.

Check/renovate running gear Where needed.

The plan is to make it look like it does now (but Without the ratholes in Panels)on top, but solid and built to last underneath

As for channeling it , as much as I love the one you did , I am planning on not going quite so full on.
Im not adverse to winding it down a touch though Laughing
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Mr Unhinged
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Joined: 17 Sep 2012
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 9:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

breninfrance wrote:
it looks solid enough to me, my 2cv was worse.
and a real rare beastie in the UK.
take care when welding the chassis near the heelboard, don't just slap a plate on top, it's a complex area, and where they're prone to bending
and simple enough to do right

Thanks for the reply It is all a learning curve for me, I intend to look at the chassis open it up and see if i can reuse it.
If i can it will get a new top plate made and zapped on
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