SNAIL

Blackjack · Snailer Joined: 02 Feb 2011 Posts: 12 Location: Chester UK

I have just replaced the steering arms on my Avion (I also fitted the phosphor bronze bushes I had made - so I'm hoping that they won't go oval in short order).

I smoothed and polished the new arms before priming them with epoxy primer and then spraying them in silver 2 pack. They look very good against the housings which I had nickel plated and fitted a grease nipple so I can run them without a rubber gaiter.

The M7 bolts holding the arms to the hub were quite rusty and didn't look the part. I wanted to replace them with something shiny. However, you cannot just replace this bolt with any stainless or chromed M7 set screw. It must be a high tensile bolt to Grade 10.9. The leading UK 2CV parts specialist sells new zinc plated hex head bolts in Grade 10.9 for £2.98 each. So £11.92 plus P&P for 4 bolts that will go rusty in short order.

Looking around the workshop I found that the BBS split rim from a 1980's BMW sitting under the workbench has 40 M7 X 32mm bolts and they are all marked Gr 10.9!! Rather than pull out and use 25 year old bolts from this wheel I got on to a wheel specialist and was able to buy 4 bolts for £1 each. These bolts come in chrome, black chrome or gold plate. They are from Germany and are all (including the chrome plated ones) guaranteed to be meet and exceed Grade 10.9. This is because BBS split rims must meet a German TUV spec. You can also get stainless bolts to B8 standard - this is the S/S equivalent of Grade 10.9. The stainless bolts are £1.25. All bolts come in different headstyles - including a pike head.

There is absolutely no need to use pretty, shiny bolts on a standard 2CV (though they are 1/3 the price) but it does look nicer on a car with exposed suspension. I'm sure that the Citroenistes will be telling me that a Citroen Grade 10.9 is MUCH stronger and better than one made by Germans but a 10.9 bolt is a 10.9 bolt.

If you're interested have a look on eBay (search for M7 x 32 split rim bolt) or try the Dubshire website.

UPDATE

There has been some arguement on other forums that the bolts in the rear of the arm need to be 4mm longer. not a problem. I will run the steering arm through the milling machine and remove 4mm off the thick boss on the rear bolt hole to restore the thread engagement - much easier and quicker than finding longer M7 Grade 10.9 bolts in chrome or stainless.

Some other pictures of the ongoing work on my Avion. Here's the nickel plated ball joint housing (with s/s grease nipple). Track rod is nickle plated too. The arm in place is the old one that is now oval. I will ditch the steel bearing cups and replace them with the phospor bronze ones pictured below.

There's also a photo of the smoothed and silver painted steering arm - but I will probably repaint it in Fiat Grigio Jet to match the rest of the chassis when it is resprayed next week.

None of it original or necessary but I do it because I want to, because I like it and because I can.