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Kustombart · Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 8:53 am Post subject: Paint related questions

Any qouestions about car painting I will try to answer. So fire away....
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Clôd · Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 9:50 am Post subject:

What's the best way for a cool car painting ? Gun ? Airbrush ? Brush ? Roll ? Loo brush ? Laughing

Well , stop the stupid jokes... Could you tell us what are the important stages and the way to have a good painting result, I mean a beautifull paint, deep and uniform. I guess preparation is the most important, but also quality of primer, paint and of course material. And practice...
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Kustombart · Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 11:01 am Post subject:

Well, you said it, preparation is a big part of it. You can have a great paintjob over shitty bodypanels and it still looks crap.

The number of steps to a paintjob vary with the complexity of the design. I usually start after someone has cut out rusty parts and welded in new parts, kustomized panels etc.

1. Preparing the object. Getting rid of dents and making the panels as straight as possible.

It typically takes me about 4-5 layers of filler/sanding to get a bodypanel straight, depending on the quality of welding/metalshaping work. After this, I use a 2 component spray primer/filler to fill in the last imperfections and to seal off the filler. If you don't seal the filler, chemicals will bleed into your colour layer and make nasty looking rings. Do not skip to the next step until everything is straight as an arrow.

2. Shooting Colour. If you want a normal (non metallic) colour, you can go straight to a 2 component "direct gloss" colour. Mixing it with hardener and thinner and applying 2-3 layers with 15 minute flash times.

If you want a metallic colour, you first shoot the colour, mixed with thinner only. This is a fast drying "basecoat" which is quite vulnerably to scratching and will wipe off with thinner. To pretect this, shoot a 2 component clearcoat over it. This is essentially a "direct gloss" paint without colour.

3. Final gloss.
Look close at any paintjob on a factory car and you will see orangepeel finish. Any paintjob will have this and often there are also dust specks and sometimes even runs in the paint where you have accidentally sprayed too much paint.

To get a mirror finish, sand off imperfections with 1000 grit wet sandpaper (use a lot of water also). The finish will go matt but do not worry, the shine will come back after polishing. The way to see if everything is smooth is described in the "how to flake" topic.

Only if you are satisfied with a complete smoothness, move on to 1500 grit wet, then 2000 and 2500. AFter this, get out your polishing liquid and start with a strong compound. The shine will come back. To get rid of the last scratches, go to a fine compound and polish again.

This is a basic paintjob. FOr special paint, the number of steps can increase to 20 or more....

As for materials, cheapness is not the way to go. Buy quality materials from a CAR PAINTSHOP. DO not buy spray cans from your do it yourself shop. They are crap. Spray cans are fine for a small object like mirror or maybe even a fender but a whole car, forget it.

Most important, buy your paint from 1 supplier, whether it's PPG, Sikkens, House Of Colour, Dupont, Glasurit or whatever. Then and only then can you be sure that the products will work together and not cause problems. Ask for advice at your paintshop.

Finally, the best bit of advice is PRACTICE. Take an old fender, bonnet, whatever and start sanding, filling and spraying!
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björn · Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 12:45 pm Post subject:

hi kustombart
wil you have stuf whit you saterday in ede?
things you piantit

Kustombart · Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 5:37 pm Post subject:

I will bring some helmets and Matt will be there with the bike that's featured in the "how to flake" topic.
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björn · Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 6:19 pm Post subject:

oke
i'am going to do some paint tonight on my front venders
il try to make pics but my camra is doing funny
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björn · Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 8:12 pm Post subject:

due to a little kitchen fire, no paint work last night Confused

every thing under control
maybe i'll try tonight

--I edited your message björn, try to focus a little bit, sometimes it's really hard to understand--
Etienne
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sivipas · Snailer Joined: 17 Oct 2007 Posts: 99

I have a question. what is the best way to protect rusty car - like the one gaetan is doing? I once tried with semi-matt epoxy transparent paint (originally used to paint engines on cargo ships; they have to be painted transparent so that the buyer can inspect welds and casting marks). well, it did not perform too good, after ca. 1 year the metal beneath started to rust on. I see so many hoodride beetles which are full of surface rust - are they used only during summer, or is there a secret to it?

Etienne · Hoodrider Joined: 25 May 2007 Posts: 2829

Two possibilities : oil on the carrossery every 2 weeks in winter and every 2 months in summer Laughing

or Gaetan used "Rustol", but that make shiny effect for the first months..

I put some WD40 on the parts rusty for real on my 2 cv!
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Kustombart · Posted: Fri Jan 04, 2008 1:45 pm Post subject:

In Summer, surface rust can be left without protection, even in rain, as long as it gets a chance to dry fast. Clean the car regularly, also helps a lot. Dirt is a rust-promoter. In winter is another story, bodywork tends to go a lot faster. It stays wet for a long time and salt on the road is the worst!

Most important is protecting hollow spaces like inside of chassis etc. Also, underside and wheelarches need a lot of protection, but it doesn't interfere with the look.

I used Caprotech RX7 on my roast duck.
It was transparant and shiny as well and lasted for about 4 months before rust came through. Then you just paint again. I'm sure there are many other products you could use. There is no permanent solution that is transparant, though.

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björn · Posted: Fri Apr 04, 2008 11:29 pm Post subject:

hi bart i so you talk how to paint pantina style
i have to do some paint on my car
the way thise bug is paintit
is it grey bass then rust looking paint then grey and than sandpaper it???
i whone do some acsends on it

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backfire · Posted: Sat Apr 05, 2008 12:22 am Post subject:

Bjorn, simple way is to use airbrush paint in 2 tones braun/red and a spunche, you can achieve very good results. Only problem with airbrush is that you have to paint mat finish to protect it.
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Kustombart · Posted: Sat Apr 05, 2008 3:31 pm Post subject:

You can airbrush car paint just as well, only need to thin it and add matting paste.

You can also use DAMP brushes or rags to apply paint. Then wipe off and smear out. Then spray normal colour lightly over and sand away parts.

Oh yeah, in specilaist modelcar shops, you can buy rust powder, it is very fine powder you can mix in clear paint or sprinkle onto a coat of wet (matt) clearcoat.
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Kustombart · Posted: Sat Apr 05, 2008 3:35 pm Post subject:

If there is interest in it, I could do a workshop in my paint room. Gather a few people, maybe get some money for material and coffee and use your car as an example, bjorn.
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Olli · Posted: Sat Apr 05, 2008 3:51 pm Post subject:

This cool van is having nice matt metallic paint job.
It could fit good in 2cv shapes:

-Olli
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