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dismantling engine, help needed!

 
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jake
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Joined: 23 Jan 2010
Posts: 8

PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2010 6:46 pm    Post subject: dismantling engine, help needed! Reply with quote

hello!
I've spent the last few days stripping down the engine on my car, and wonder if anyone has any advice on how to get the heads off the cylinders? my manual shows the head and cylinders coming off separately once the head bolts are undone, but mine came off together and wont budge, i've tried hitting it and levering it (at the expense of a fin on the cylinder) but it just wont come apart
i plan on reusing the original cylinder (im on a budget) so a way of getting them off without destroying anything would be nice!
thanks in advance
jake
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Godspeed
Snailer


Joined: 08 Nov 2009
Posts: 33
Location: Belgium

PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2010 7:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Jake,

Can you take a picture.

It could stick a little bit with a slight hit at the sides with a rubber hamer is should come off.

I remember there was a topic on this on a dutch forum with some tips.
I'm trying to find it back for you.
I remember some radical ideas like putting a stick in side and then wigle round and let the head bounce on the top of the stick.

Cheers

Bart
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Godspeed
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Joined: 08 Nov 2009
Posts: 33
Location: Belgium

PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2010 8:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found it back:
If the rubber hammer doesn't work.
Take a wooden pole (soft wood). Pole is 2cm smaller then bore diameter.
Slide it in the cylinder until it touches the head.
One person holds pole with gloves under the cylinder.
Second person holds the parts.
Lift pole and hit it on the ground.
After a couple of blows it should come loose (be it 6 or 20 depending on how stuck it is)

Hope it helps.
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jake
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Joined: 23 Jan 2010
Posts: 8

PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2010 1:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thankyou for the advice, but i'm afraid i have tried both and still not got it off! i also tried warming it on a stove (warm to the touch not red hot!) but have had no luck on either side. i was considering clamping it in a vice (between soft wood) and inserting a bit of wood and hitting it, but im worried this might damage the fins or even worse warp or crush the cylinder if i overtighten the vice! could heating only the ally head with a blow torch then hitting it work? sorry i haven't got a picture at the moment, i will try and get one tomorrow :)
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Brooky
Dropped


Joined: 22 Feb 2008
Posts: 115
Location: North Devon, England

PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2010 12:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Jake,

Try the time-honoured trick of dumping the whole assembly in a bucket of diesel fuel for a week. This method has been used for years by restorers for un-siezing components. It will work but you need the patience to leave it alone for a week,...and it's non-damaging!

Brooky.
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backfire
Dropped


Joined: 14 Nov 2007
Posts: 346
Location: NL, 's-Hertogenbosch

PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2010 12:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

how long did you leave it in the stove and what temp? It's a lot of metal, so I guess you need at least 1 hour at 200 degrees C, use welding gloves to handle. Then use the wooden pole trick. Also trick of leaving it in diesel for 1 week is good, then if it still doesn't come loose use the stove again. If everything fails, grind down the cilinder NOT the head, the head is the expensive part the cilinder is cheap to buy new. With some bad luck the head melted at the edge caused by a bad fitting.
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dyanut
Dropped


Joined: 05 Aug 2007
Posts: 177
Location: North Yorkshire

PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2010 3:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jake,
a variation on the wooden drift method is for one person ( wearing gloves ;o) ) to grip the barrel and hold the head/barrel assembly upside down over the workbench.
The second person strikes the other end of the drift with a 2 kg lump hammer until the head lets go.
Check now and again to see if the joint has begun to separate and alter the angle of the drift if the head is tilting relative to the barrel.
Note that it's best to lay some old carpet or other cushioning on the bench to prevent damage to the head as it drops.
This method has never failed for me...

ken
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jake
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Joined: 23 Jan 2010
Posts: 8

PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2010 5:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thankyou everyone for the advice, backfire im afraid its a woodburning stove so i have no idea how hot it was, i could pick it up and carry it so i doubt it was anywhere near 200 degrees! i will try the diesel trick (cheers brooky) fingers crossed that will work!
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jake
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Joined: 23 Jan 2010
Posts: 8

PostPosted: Wed Feb 10, 2010 1:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

quick update, after soaking in diesel and a few smacks with a hammer onto a bit of wood in the cylinder and they came off, i dented a push rod tube taking them off but hopefully can reshape them, could this cause a problem?
today i gave it a bit of a port polish, hopefully tomorrow can get the valves reseated and get it back together!
again cheers everyone for the advice!
jake
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Godspeed
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Joined: 08 Nov 2009
Posts: 33
Location: Belgium

PostPosted: Wed Feb 10, 2010 11:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Jake,

Finally some good news Wink.
Make sure the push rod does not make contact with the tube and all is OK.

Cheers

Bart
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